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The folly begins in British Columbia	Josn on 2 track	Sonya at Whitefish lake	Mike Pushes Through Snow Field near Red Meadow Lake MT	John near the Bob Marshall Wilderness in MT	Tight squeeze
Fleecer Ridge near Wise River MT	John's best friend	Breakfast in the Middle of the Road	John on Lava Mt Trail	Mike on Lava Mt Trail	John on the Route Near Red Rock Lake MT
Mike & John at Red Rock Pass MT	Mike near the Grand Tetons WY	Mike with David & Joann Martin at their Hostel near Union Pass WY	Aspen Alley North of Steamboat Springs CO	Andre & Bastion with Mike Outside of Steamboat Springs CO	Tonja & Mike at Lynx Pass CO
Colorado River near Radium CO	Mike & Texas Belles on Boreas Pass CO	Valerie & Mike Salida CO	Marshall Pass near Salida CO	O'Haver Lake Near Marshall Pass	Trail pals
Kent at Ceneros Park	Lundy's Group on the CO NM Border	Outback	Cowboys & Cattle	Now That's a Pancake Uranium Cafe Grants NM	Western Bike Wear
Enjoying a HOT One	Chihauhaun Desert	Furry Friend	Good signage	Good Times to be had Tonight	Finished at Last Mike Owen Garland & Carolyn

Great Divide Mountain Bike Route
Or
HOW I SPENT MY SUMMER VACATION

I went for only one bike ride this summer, but what a bike ride it was! The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route is the longest mapped, off-pavement cycling route in the world. The 2,470 mile route extends from the Montana-British Columbia border in Port of Rooseville to the far southwest corner of New Mexico in Antelope Wells-a tiny, dusty border crossing into Old Mexico. Generally staying within 50 miles of the Continental Divide, the GDMBR traverses some of our country's wildest and most rugged terrain, as well as some of the most scenic.

A few vital statistics about the route itself: Completed in 1998, the GDMBR was the project of the Missoula, Montana-based "Adventure Cycling Association" (www.adv-cycling.org). Utilizing low-use roads that web United States Forest Service (USFS) and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) lands, 85% of the GDMBR consists of dirt and gravel roads. Ten percent of the route is paved and the remaining five percent is composed of single-track paths. The route crosses the Continental Divide twenty-seven times with the lowest elevation being 2,577 feet above sea level near the Canadian border, and it reaches a maximum height of almost 12,000 feet at Indiana Pass, a few miles south of and nearly a mile above the town of Del Norte, Colorado. Through-riders can plan on climbing a total of approximately140,000 feet (about 28 miles) and can expect to encounter several stretches from 2 to 5 days in duration that offer no food stores or other services. Water sources are arguably the greatest problem in the southern third of the route where Colorado and New Mexico have been experiencing severe drought conditions for the past several years. Summer temperatures along the route vary from 20 degrees to 110 degrees and the terrain reflects this variation. Riders can expect to cover terrain that encompasses alpine tundra to pine forests; aspen groves to alpine meadows; bare rock to grasslands; harsh desert to snow choked passes. The wildlife is just as varied. Riders may encounter wolves, coyotes, grizzlies, black bears, mountain lion, moose, three species of deer, badgers (nasty critters), hummingbirds (thousands), prairie dogs (millions), Rocky Mountain big horn sheep, rattlers, elk, javelina, fox, marmots, tarantulas, lizards, osprey, bald eagles, pronghorn antelope, wild horses and Ted-Kaczynski-like recluses. The trail connects three countries (Canada, United States, and Mexico), as well as the five states of Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, and New Mexico.

As spectacular as this trail is, it is not a trail for cruisers. Many of the miles are hard-fought and hard-won-slow, rough, tedious, teeth-jarring slogging. According to Adventure Cycling, most through-riders take 70 plus days to complete the route, although the incredible John Stamstad rode it in less than 19 days in August 1999. Of course, he couldn't have had all that much fun doing it. Although, I believe that most experienced riders who are in good physical condition, have a grand sense of adventure and reliable equipment would be able to complete the route; but, of course, not in 19 days. Yet, preparation is the key. Even though I had not had any backpacking or bike touring experience prior to this trip, there was preparation. Many hours of research went into the planning and execution of this excursion. All the research and advance preparation were instrumental in allowing me to successfully complete the route.

Why?

Before, during, and after preparations had been made, many friends and some family members asked one question: WHY? Simply put, I had the time and I had a bike. Also, I read Bill Bryson's book, A Walk in the Woods and figured, correctly, if he can do something like this, why not me? And the Marty Basch (GDMBR 1999) presentation at the Nashua Public Library last winter on his bike trips helped push me over the edge-or rather, down the road. And besides, I really like to ride my bike!!!

Getting There

My daughter, Sonya, agreed to drive me from New Hampshire to Whitefish, Montana where I would meet my brother, John, who was coming from Oregon. John's wife, Missy, would drive the three of us to the Canadian border which would mark the start of journey. Sonya would ride for the first three days, about 100 miles, back into Whitefish and then return home. John was scheduled to stay with me for two weeks or so before leaving me alone in the wilderness to return to his income-producing life. However, he stayed with me a bit longer than four weeks until we made Rawlins, Wyoming. John rode on in part because he was afraid that I would get lost and end up in Nebraska. But, more importantly, John was having one hell of a good time with his big brother. It sure was fun renewing our relationship after spending so many years apart. I can even overlook the fact that he made me send box after box of essential gear home. Okay, so there's "preparation" and then there's "over-preparation."

Bike & Gear

Geez, I hope Marc doesn't see this. The bike I used is a '97 Specialized hardtail that I built up with this trip in mind. A Psylo SL fork (the lockout was utilized on the long climbs) and a USE Suspension seat-post to soften those brutal washboard roads…yeah, right. An Avid disk up front and XT V's on the back. Front and rear pads still look like they have many more miles on them. Another trip perhaps? Wheel set was Sun Rhino Lite hoops with XT hubs (tough stuff). I had riser bars but bought a set of bar ends in Helena, MT which helped alleviate the wrist pain somewhat. As for tires-started out with semi-slicks but changed to knobby's when we got back into Whitefish. Snow, mud and loose gravel dictated the more aggressive tread and overall they seemed to be the right choice for most of the ride. They are now trash, the rear worn out and both with more holes than a Florida ballot. The trailer is a Yakima, which, other than a minor problem with the fender, held up very well for the entire trip and did I have it loaded down. I did put a larger tire (16x2.22 still looks great) on it before I set out. It took UPS to damage the trailer beyond repair when I shipped it home. I used a Mountain Hardwear Sky View tent. Heavy, yes, but it stood up well in foul weather and had a large vestibule for storing all the stuff I would eventually send home. I swear that I read Ray Jadine's book. It's just………

Greatest Sight

Riding along the western edge of the Bob Marshall Wilderness north of Seely Lake was where we encountered The Grizz. John was ahead (as usual) on the dirt road as we made the long climb up through the pass when he stopped short in the road and signaled to me to, "Come here." As I rode up I thought I heard him saying, "Get the camera," when in fact he was saying, "FORGET the camera". All he really wanted was the bear spray that I was carrying in my Camelbak. However with the wind blowing in our faces he would have only applied the pepper spray to us had he needed to use it. The grizzly, lying in the road, appeared to be just resting and enjoying the sunny day. Upon realizing that we were violating his personal space, he got up and started up the road away from us. After giving us a couple of backward glances, he dropped over the steep side of the mountain and was gone. We waited a couple of minutes and then continued our ride. Truly a sight to behold!

Greatest Site

Hard to decide with so many spectacular vistas to choose from. Remember that I'm spending my summer in the Rocky Mountains. However, one of the most memorable sites has to be the climb up Indiana Pass to the section beyond encompassing the Summitville Mine and on to Stunner Campground in southern Colorado. Summitville Mine, an EPA Superfund Site situated high in the Rockies amid subalpine basins and aspen meadows, offers striking views. Unfortunately, the process of gold mining in Summitville (until 1988) has poisoned the creeks for eighteen miles downstream. Residual arsenic makes the water undrinkable even after filtering. Needless to say, the fishing isn't very good either-mainly because there aren't any.

Thanks for the Memories

Some thanks are due and these are not in any particular order:

Greg Painter and his family who had us in for supper that Sunday evening in a very remote part of Montana.
Tonja & André Elkins for their wonderful hospitality in Steamboat Springs, CO. They took me on a killer hike up to the Devil's Causeway on my rest day. The next day they each rode half the day's route with me up to Lynx Pass.

Arvid Lundy and his wonderful gang of section riders for carrying my trailer in "Big Blue" for five days. Yes, I rode unfettered for a bit and I'm not ashamed at all.

Joel and his mom at the Hachita Café who allow bikers to camp for free in their yard. And some good food to boot.

Marc Basiliere (GDMBR 2000) for the information, encouragement and the detailed gear list he provided. I should have paid it more respect. Gads, I sent a lot of stuff home. Marc and his friend Kevin did the route in 41 days.

My daughter, Sonya, for driving me out to Montana and then returning home by herself. But she did get to ride the first three days of the route. 57 to go, Son! And remember, NO PICTURES!!! at the border inspection stations.

Missy, John's wife, for all the nice meals she prepared while she was patiently waiting around for John to come home. And yes, she carried the trailers for a few days as well.

Miscellaneous Stats:

Riding days = 60
Rest/Waiting days = 15
Total mileage = 2754 (includes running around towns)
Average miles per day = 41.2 (on route)
Highest daily mileage = 82 (twice, not by design)
Lowest mileage = 10 (2nd day to put us back on route schedule)
Hottest temperature = 104 degrees north of Silver City, NM
Coldest Temperature = 31 degrees Quemado Lake, NM
Road signs in Montana without bullet holes = 0 (includes Interstate highways)
Best Bar = Geez, there were so many…..Hachita Saloon, Liquid Louies, Trixies…
Best Beer in Montana = Moose Drool Ale (no kidding)
Best Beer in Wyoming = Trout Slayer Ale
Best Beer in Colorado = Boulder Beer, Single Track Ale (sorry Fat Tire)
Best Beer in New Mexico = Bud Light (what can I say? And throw the can out the window on the way home)
Best campground = Steamboat Lake, CO (and thanks to the ranger who found me a spot in the "FULL" campground)
Best campsite = Picnic area south of Wise River, MT. (new log cabin, see-through fire place with plenty of fire wood, brass screens and mountain views….wow)
Best Hostel = Aspen Meadows in Dubois, WY (Dave & Joann Martin run a first rate treker's oasis and their hospitality was second to none)
Best pancakes (my weakness) = Uranium Café, Grants, NM (see photo)
Best Café = Canvas Café in Grant, MT
Best Homemade Pie = Calf-A in Dell, MT (Sorry, Pie Town, NM, not even close)

The accompanying pictures are a small sampling of the vast and beautiful terrain that the route covers, but just as importantly, they show some of the people who we/I met along the way.

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